Split

Split thrives as Croatia's second-largest city (population 180,000; 350,000 metro) and the beating heart of Dalmatia, where Roman Emperor Diocletian's 1,700-year-old retirement palace forms the living, breathing core of a vibrant Mediterranean city still buzzing with markets, bars, restaurants, and 3,000+ residents' apartments within ancient limestone walls—imagine Rome's Colosseum filled with cafés and you understand Split's unique UNESCO magic. Diocletian's Palace isn't a museum—it's an active neighborhood where locals live among 4th-century Roman columns (the Peristyle's six Corinthian columns still stand in their original position), medieval additions built into Roman foundations, and Venetian Gothic facades creating an architectural layer cake spanning empires. The palace basement (Podrumi, around $9–$11 entry for the paid section) preserves original Roman halls and chambers serving as the emperor's storage and slave quarters, while the Peristyle square's monumental colonnade frames cafés where Splićani sip morning kava (coffee) under stone arches where Diocletian once walked.

The Cathedral of St. Domnius occupies Diocletian's octagonal mausoleum, with combined tickets typically around $11–$16 including the 57-meter bell tower (200+ steps for views). Beyond palace walls, the Riva waterfront promenade stretches along the harbor lined with palm trees, seafood restaurants serving grilled fish and octopus salad, and ferry terminals with catamarans departing to Adriatic islands (Jadrolinija and Krilo companies).

Marjan Hill's forested 3.5 km² park offers hiking and biking trails, hidden pebble beaches like Kašjuni and Bene below pine-covered slopes, and Telegrin viewpoint's sunset panoramas above Split's terracotta roofs and azure Adriatic extending to nearby islands. Yet Split's soul lives beyond tourist zones—the Green Market (Pazar) east of the palace overflows with Dalmatian pršut (prosciutto), Pag island cheese, local olive oil, and morning fish vendors shouting prices, while Varoš district's steep stone streets west of Marjan preserve authentic konobas (family taverns) serving pašticada (slow-braised beef in prune-wine sauce), brudet fish stew, and grilled squid without tourist markups. The city serves as the perfect base for Central Dalmatian island-hopping—ferries and catamarans reach Hvar's lavender fields and party beaches (1-2 hours), Brač's famous Zlatni Rat golden beach horn shifting with currents, Vis island's untouched coves and Blue Cave day trips, Šolta's quiet fishing villages, and Korčula's medieval walls where Marco Polo allegedly was born.

Split's own pebble beaches like Bačvice buzz with locals playing picigin, a unique Dalmatian beach ball game involving acrobatic dives in shallow water. Riva nightlife sees bars and clubs fill after 10pm when Croatians emerge for evening strolls (špica tradition). Visit May-June or September-October for warm 24-28°C swimming, open restaurants, and manageable crowds without July-August peak season crush.

With affordable prices (meals $11–$22 hotels $54–$108), Game of Thrones filming locations throughout the palace (basement stood in for Meereen), ferry connections to islands, authentic Dalmatian living where locals still outnumber tourists in many neighborhoods, and nearly 3,000 hours of annual sunshine, Split delivers Roman history, island gateway access, Mediterranean atmosphere, and value as Croatia's most underrated major city.