Kathmandu

Kathmandu captivates as the essential gateway to the Himalayas where Swayambhunath's ancient golden stupa crowned with all-seeing Buddha eyes hosts cheeky monkeys stealing snacks on the famous 365 steps ascending Monkey Temple hill, Durbar Square's multi-tiered pagoda temples showcase intricate Newari wood carvings and erotic sculptures despite heartbreaking 2015 earthquake damage that toppled several structures, and the chaotic backpacker haven of Thamel district outfits trekkers bound for Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Circuit, and Langtang valley adventures with gear shops, permit agencies, and guide services. Nepal's capital and largest city (around 850,000 in the city proper, 4 million in the greater Kathmandu Valley) sits at 1,400 meters elevation in a valley bowl surrounded by Himalayan giants—clear October-November and March-April mornings reveal stunning distant snowcapped peaks from rooftop restaurants and hotel terraces creating dramatic backdrop. The city serves primarily as logistical trekking and mountaineering hub where equipment rental shops, registered guide companies, and government permit offices prepare Himalayan adventures, yet Kathmandu Valley's remarkable seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Durbar Squares of Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur, plus Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, and Changu Narayan) absolutely reward cultural exploration for non-trekkers or those acclimatizing.

Massive Boudhanath Stupa's white dome (one of the world's largest Buddhist stupas) attracts Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims and monks in maroon robes circumambulating clockwise spinning prayer wheels while incense burns and prayer flags flutter from the central spire—surrounding Tibetan refugee community operates monasteries, restaurants serving authentic momos and thukpa, and shops selling Tibetan handicrafts. Sacred Pashupatinath Temple complex on holy Bagmati River's ghats hosts open-air Hindu cremation ceremonies where funeral pyres burn continuously—non-Hindus cannot enter the main golden-roofed temple but respectfully observe powerful death rituals from across the river (entry around NPR 1,000 for foreigners). Kathmandu Durbar Square (around NPR 1,000 entry for foreigners, earthquake-damaged structures under reconstruction) preserves the medieval royal palace complex, intricate pagoda temples, and Kumari Ghar housing Nepal's Living Goddess (Kumari)—a young prepubescent girl worshipped as incarnation of Hindu goddess Taleju until first menstruation, who occasionally appears at upper window though photography is forbidden.

Yet Kathmandu's reality absolutely assaults unprepared visitors: choking dust and vehicle pollution, anarchic traffic where pedestrians dodge motorcycles, frequent power cuts even in hotels, grinding poverty visible on streets, and post-earthquake trauma still affecting infrastructure. The better-preserved sister cities of Patan (Lalitpur, 30 minutes south by taxi Rs 500, local bus Rs 30) showcases superior Newari architecture with less earthquake damage and tourist hassle plus excellent Patan Museum, while medieval Bhaktapur (1 hour by bus Rs 50, entry around NPR 1,500 or roughly US$12 for foreigners) feels authentically frozen in time with car-free cobbled squares, pottery workshops where artisans spin clay on hand wheels, and famous creamy juju dhau (king curd) yogurt sold in terracotta bowls. The food scene serves hearty dal bhat (lentils, rice, vegetable curry, pickles—traditional Nepali meal eaten twice daily), steamed or fried momos (Tibetan-Nepali dumplings with buffalo, chicken, or vegetables, around Rs 100-200 for 10 pieces), and traditional Newari specialties including choila (spiced grilled buffalo meat) and bara (black lentil pancakes).

Visit October-November for clearest skies, comfortable 12-23°C temperatures, and post-monsoon freshness making this absolute peak trekking season when permits surge and Thamel overflows, or March-May for spring rhododendron blooms warming to 15-28°C though hazy views—monsoon June-September brings flooding rains, leeches on trails, and clouds obscuring mountains. With visa on arrival ($$30 for 15 days, $50 for 30 days cash at airport), extremely cheap costs ($15–$40/$15–$40 per day possible), altitude at 1,400m providing useful staging point to acclimatize before heading much higher on treks, fascinating Hindu-Buddhist cultural fusion, and position as unavoidable Himalayan trekking gateway, Kathmandu delivers chaotic spiritual intensity, pre-trek preparation, Newari architectural heritage, and access to Earth's highest mountains despite pollution, poverty, and infrastructure challenges testing patience.